JustJess
The second week of Autumn holidays started unusually. With a free day. My host family was out for a trip and as I wasn’t anywhere the weekend before, I decided to do the same. Especially, when the weather was literally pleading to do so. The outcome? One of the best Mondays of my life!
My regular readers might notice from my photos that Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) is sailed by many ships and boats. The most memorable of them are paddle wheel steamboats from the beginning of the 20th century. They literally look like small Titanics with just one chimney and they give the lake area a very unique historical atmosphere. So that was my Monday plan. Hop on one of these lake beauties and take a trip to a nearby legendary castle – Chillon.
I bought a boat ticket online in advance, but it is also possible to buy in stands by the lake or on the boat itself. The fleet of steamboats on Lake Geneva is run by CGN company – a firm with a tradition of more than 100 years. The CGN fleet has 8 historical paddle wheel steamboats from the belle epoque era – five of them are paddle wheel steamboats and three of them diesel electric paddle wheel boats. My ride for that day was of the second group and it’s called Vevey. That must have been a destiny. 😀
When Vevey arrived at Vevey harbour, I boarded the ship and was immediately left breathless by its beauty and atmosphere. After entering I was welcomed by a staircase which divides the ship into two passengers’ floors. The first one in the bow of the ship belongs to second class passengers. The stern of the first floor has a unique first class lounge with light-colored marquetry. The upper floor also belongs to the first class.
As expected, I had a second class ticket, so I only peeked into the first class spaces and went to the bow of the ship, to enjoy the view. And my my, what a view. Seeing the riviera from the lake is a completely different feeling. All the time, I watch the lake from the mainland and now I finally got the opportunity to look at the mainland from the lake.
The soft morning light flooded the Montreux riviera and embraced all the mountain peaks with light mist. Buildings by the lake and colorful trees were slowly rising from the haze as the sun was higher and higher in the sky. It was promising a beautiful day. But down on the lake, in the bow of the ship, it was pretty cold and windy. Every second of the journey reminded me that it was already the second half of October and hot summer days were long gone.
The voyage went surprisingly fast. I would never expect a hundred year old boat to be such an aeroplan. Fascinating is also that you can watch the paddle wheels from the interior of the boat. At every stop I run to the entrance lounge to watch the wheels slow down, stop and then start moving again. What an amazing piece of technology!
After 30 minutes we passed Montreux and headed to Chateau de Chillon which, as a famous monument, has its own stop. Chillon is built on a rocky island right next to the mainland so one facade faces the lake. That’s the main reason I wanted to go there by the boat – because if I went from the mainland, one side of the castle would remain a mystery.
The small building of the castle was fastly enlarging right in front of my eyes, as the boat was getting closer and closer. Within minutes, the unconcrete building grew into a grand castle that looks like it’s rising straight from the blue waters of the lake.
At the Chillon stop it was time for me to get off the boat and say goodbye to the lake beauty called Vevey. But God, I won’t let this be our last meeting. I am stepping on this ship again in the future. I will buy a ticket to the first class and take a round trip. No matter the price. I just have to.
Chillon castle is one of the most visited monuments in the country. Always to be found on every list of top 10 places to visit in Switzerland. No wonder, it looks impressive from both the mainland and from the lake side. Like a shining pearl or a silent guardian witnessing the events by the lake for centuries.
Chateau de Chillon was first mentioned in written sources in the mid 12th century. But archaeological research showed that the place was inhabited since the Bronze age. Today’s castle is the result of several centuries of construction. Thanks to its strategic location it was a connecting point between south and north of Europe for many centuries.
When buying a ticket (13,50 Francs for adults) I was surprised that they have a printed brochure with information about the castle in 17 languages, including Czech. The salesman asked me where I am from and then automatically gave me my brochure. But I also rented an English audio guide (6 Francs), which was a great decision.
With a ticket in my hand, I crossed an 18th century bridge, connecting the mainland with the castle and I found myself in the first of four courtyards. The audio guide led me straight into the underground. To the oldest parts of the castle.
At the very bottom of the building, where the rocky island is towering from the ground are cellars, storhouses and a prison. There is also an 11th century crypt which was discovered during excavations. Even cellars and storages in this part of the castle shocked me with its size. With its 13th century gothic vault they look more like a small church, than a storage room.
The most iconic part of the underground is a prison – Bonivard’s prison. It owes its fame to English poet Lord Byron who recounted the story of François Bonivard in his poem – The Prisoner of Chillon.
François Bonivard was an antagonist to the Duke of Savoy. He led a monastery supporting the Reformation and also joined the movement to free Geneva from the Savoy’s. For his activities he was captured by the Duke of Savoy in 1530 and imprisoned at Chillon. According to the legend he was dragged to the castle and chained to the pillar. For the time being he paced as far as he could with the chain and carved a circular rut to the floor by pacing it. He was freed in 1536 when Bernese attacked the castle and forced Savoys to leave the land.
From the underground spaces I headed to the second courtyard and to the interior of the castle. Many of the ceremonial rooms, salons and private rooms inhabited by Savoys and later Bernese owners came through reconstruction at the beginning of the 20th century. Local archeologist, expert on Chillon castle Albert Naef reconstructed many elements of the castle, inspired by what was left of the originals or by what was found in other parts of the castle. So many wall paints and other details are actually from the 20th century. But made with the technique artists used in the 13th century. It is a perfect illusion which adds to the atmosphere of the castle. But there are also many original elements which look exactly the same as centuries ago. Like fireplaces or some of the wooden ceilings. Also paintings in the Lord’s bedroom (Camera domini) are originals from the 14th century.
When I looked through all the sales and private quarters, which were all positioned on the lake side, it was time for the mainland facing part of the castle. All the walls on this side are thicker and there are no big windows. Only narrow openings like loopholes and embrasures. All for defensive purposes.
Amazing are also wooden galleries that allow visitors to pass from one part of the castle to another. They lead for example to a watchtower, which was built to look over the bridge and castle entrance. Even with its small windows it has an amazing view on the pre-Alps.
When I passed all the wooden galleries, the audio guide led me to the last remaining building. The robust tower in the very centre of the island. The tower looks a bit like it fell from the middle-age focused strategy game and it automatically made me think about the keep, which served as the last point of defence. Well, I wasn’t wrong. The keep (Donjon) dates from the 11th century and it was mainly a defence post. The entrance to the keep was high above the ground and only accessible by ladder or a drawbridge.
Today’s keep is from the 14th century and it is 25m high. During centuries it served many purposes: defence, provisional residence, storehouse, prison and only its first floor was habitable. During the reconstruction in the 20th century stairs were built to allow access to the highest point which overviews the castle and all the surrounding areas.
After exiting the keep the tour ends. But I spent almost four hours in the castle. Four hours. Sure, it’s possible to go through the whole building in 1,5 hours, but I am a damn nerd. I went through the whole building twice. First, as a tourist with an audio guide in my hand. And second with a camera to take some pretty pictures. I wanted to remember the place. But even if I didn’t, I don’t think there is a possibility of this day disappearing from my memory. It was one of the best days of my whole Au-pair stay.
PS: All the factual information in this article was taken from the official printed brochure of Chillon castle.
It’s make me feel that I’m in with you :*